Russian hospitality

The trip from Helsinki to Moscow went alright. The Tolstoi train 31 was even on right on time. I had never travelled from Finland to Russia on a night train (or within Finland for that matter, strange right?) so this was also a first time experience. The train was rather empty in my opinion as many of the cabins had no passengers. I got my own as well. There was a complimentary bottle of water and a “gift” bag on the table (which included some cookies, yogurt, chocolate and such). The carriage attendant (or provodnitsa in Russian) showed me to my seat and took my ticket and passport. Naturally not speaking any English with some words of Finnish thrown in. Well nevermind, I’m here now. Being the Finn that I am, I almost instantly asked about the restaurant in horrible Russian. She fluently said “vaunu numero 15”. So I took my copy of Foreign Affairs and went to get a beer to kick off this holiday of some sort. After I got back, almost instanly an older Russian guy enters my cabin. He hopped in from Lappeenranta. Luckily he’s a business man of some sort, traveling quite a lot so he speaks English. We chatted for a while and started doing our own things. After a while, I realised that it is quite late so should get some sleep. Couldn’t sleep that well, guess I’ll have to get used to the sounds of the train moving and shaking seeing as this 13h ride is only the beginning of my train rides for the few following weeks.

Upon arriving to Moscow it was freezing cold! Luckily a friend of mine, Mira came to meet me at the station, otherwise I’d have been totally lost. She also mentione that it was -23 degrees, so a bit chilly. We took a few metros (again, totally lost) and went strraight to her place to drop off my stuff. I also met her mom who cooked me some breakfast! Nice. She was one of those cool moms that you meet! Then we headed off to see some sights in the freezing cold weather. Saw some nice parks and fairy tale castles in “christmas towns”. After a while we met up with Mira’s German friend who was in town and also his friend. We went for a lunch at one Chinese place called Lucky Noodles. Had some delicious egg noodles with pork and vegetables and some green tea and only roughly for 4 euros. In the evening it was time for a new year’s party, Moscow style! I was invited to spend the New Year’s with Mira and a small group of her friends (Marat, Jane, Altana Masia), of which all of them spoke English. In Russia they have a tradition to just eat and eat loads of food and drink champagne while doing that. Then just before midnight Putin gives out a speech and after that they write a New Year’s wish on a piece of paper, light it on fire and drop it in the champagne, then drink it. Naturally you won’t tell what you wished for. Kind of like the new year’s resolution I usually do. The reason for all the food is of course that they love food but also that they think they will have plenty of it next year as well. Sounds logical (I can be corrected if I’m wrong in any of these! We also played some games and had loads of fun.

10915214_10153479989102926_5250672501522419745_n - копияI was Sherlock Holmes, though I wasn’t able to guess it…

 

Some point after midnight it was time to go outside and see how other people party. We went to the Red Square but it was actually closed up by the time we got there. A lot of police and miliisi around too. We played a game of who can spot a Santa the fastest (as there were a lot of people in Santa hats but not the whole costume), naturally I won so I made the others dance Usher in the middle of the street. Don’t ask me why. Took a taxi home, chilled and danced and then went to bed. It was amazing to spend this new year’s with the people I just met as it was easy to get to know them because we were only six people. They also made me feel like a part of their family which was awesome. On the day after new year’s everybody were a bit tired and were sleeping till late.

We were up with Jane quite early and watched some shows without a thought about dogs and kittens, in Russian hahahaha. She started preparing some lunch which consisted of some japanese fish, a few different salads and bread. When the food was almost ready everybody else found their way into the kitchen, I guess the scent of food must’ve enticed them hahahahah. We ate slowly and just chilled. After lunch we got ready to go out for some sightseeing. Took a metro (still lost) to the center and saw the Red Square, the Kremlin among others. The square was filled with people, tourists and locals alike. Hell on earth I might add.

10917867_10153479989862926_6638471394898656999_n      The new year’s marked the start of holidays for Russian people as they celebrate Christmas on the 7th of January so many have a few weeks of holidays. After sightseeing we ended up in a bar for some food and drinks. We stayed there for hours as some friends Marat joined as well. We started off with four people and in the end we were eight. It was nice to meet some more Russian people and I got some nice tips regarding the train rides, Irkutsk and Lake Baikal. I had so much fun that I even considered jus skipping the train and stay with these people for a few more days hahahah. Unfortunately I have already bought tickets for trains so it would’ve been a bad decision financially. Anyway, Jane and Mira prepared an awesome bag of food for me (supposedly it’s Russian tradition to bring along cooked chicken and some boiled eggs to that’s what I got among other food hahahahah). I also got a surprise gift from them which they had bought for me before they had even met me. A map of the world of which you can scratch all the places you have been on this trip, cool!

10891593_10153479995392926_1025520027841245362_n - копия - копия                                    10917282_10153479994967926_3181272402010723424_n

 

So then it’s off to the train station to send me off. Five people came to say bye to me and danced a bit on the platform as I was alresdy inside the train. Crazy Russians! It was a nice way to send me off and sadly I had to say goodbye. Though I kind of promised to go back soon in the summer when it’s a bit better weather. We’ll see ;).

Time to move on ahead to the longest train ride of this trip, 74 hours to Irkutsk. Gonna be a loooong ride. I’ve been learning some Russian words and Cyrillic alphabet and I am getting quite good at it! Maybe I should buy a Russian dictionary or a textbook to learn some more….I am alone in my cabin which is in a way nice but also a let down as it would’ve been nice to meet some people. There’a Mongolian group of people in a few cabins but they don’t seem to speak English so don’t want to disturb them. Other than that there’s some Russians but otherwise the train seems quite empty. Definitely not a touristic time to travel hahahahah. Day 1 passed quickly as the train departed really late and all I did was eat and go to sleep. Day 2 went alright, just chilling and eating and reading. I also borrowed this one Russian guy’s jatkojohto (a plug where you can attach more plugs) once and I have talked to him a few times.  On the day 3 the Russian guy Alex mentioned he has a birthday and he is turning 36 so I went to his cabin and offered some vodka to him as a celebration. Naturally he was happy to take it and so we got on. We talked about a lot of things and before we knew it, the bottle of vodka was empty hahahahahha. We also switched numbers and he told me to contact him if I ran Into trouble in Irkutsk (as he is from there). He is a military medic who has been in Angola, Ivory Coast, Mauritania etc. Kinda cool! To be honest, I have never drank vodka like this (as a conversational tool). Rather just as shots in Finnish style. Also met one of the Mongolian girls and she was doing on internship in Moscow but now returning home. She had also worked for the Red cross and the United Nations.
10923201_10153479989497926_1106240225493074144_nBasic scenery along the ride.
The last day and the day 4 on the train. More reading and eating. Scenery hasn’t changed that lot, just tundra, forests and snow. Also it is dark most of they day so not that many hours for sightseeing either. Oh and we finished another bottle of vodka which we bought yesterday. The vodka is from Mariinsk and supposedly the best vodka in Russia, according to my new friend. I have to agree with him, it was probably the best I have ever tasted. He had also bought some pirozhka, which are kind of like pies with different fillings. Went nicely together with the vodka.
10406452_10153479989747926_2689005172115650256_n - копия (2)
Finally in Irkutsk then! My plan was to get to Irkutsk, see some sights and visit Lake Baikal. I had a confirmed couchsurfing host from here but she sent me tex saying that she cannot meet me at the station. Fair enough, it was 7.30 in the morning, local time. So I took a taxi and it drove for like 20 minutes and I thought the flat was quite close to the center. Well anyway, the taxi arrived at the address and I rang my host. She was obviously sleeping and when I got in she just showed me a couch on which I could sleep in and went back to sleep with her boyfriend…At least I got the wifi and a key to her flat. It was still really early so I didn’t want to go out yet as I had no idea where I am. I slept for a few hours and woke up while they woke as well. Boyfriend didn’t speak any English and they both just started playing Playstation…This was rather strange as I am used to people registered for couchsurfing having a genuine interest in meeting new people. Well shit happens. I left out to explore the city and look for an internet cafe and to have my visa registered as I need to do that, otherwise I might face some fines at the border when I leave Russia. Irkutsk is a pretty compact city, the center easily walked on foot. It has a fair amount of restaurants and bars. Public transport works though the buses are pretty much any moving vehicle with some number at the front. It works though but it also feels a bit dangerous as they drive quite fast hahaha. It only costs 12 roubles which is like 0,15 euros. I walked around quite a lot and had a few beers and ate a dinner at a Korean restaurant. Noody spoke English there so the owner rang some guy who did and I placed my order on the phone hahahah. I decided that I will leave my couchsurfing host after one night and take a bus to Baikal, stay there for one night and book a dorm room from Baikaler hostel in Irkutsk, which registered my visa as well. After that it’s on to Ulan Bator and another 30 hours on the train.
Ps. Sorry for the quality of the pictures(haven’t been able to find a memory card reader yet) and also the formatting, not too adept with Russian computers yet!

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